Why I saddle stitch our leather goods by hand

There are quicker ways to join two pieces of leather, but saddle stitching is the method I choose for our wallets, card holders and other leather goods. It takes time, and that time is part of making a piece I can feel confident sending out of the workshop.

What is a saddle stitch?

A saddle stitch is sewn by hand using a single length of thread with a needle at each end. The needles pass through the same holes from opposite sides, forming a line of stitches that holds the layers of leather together.

Before I start sewing, the leather pieces are cut and prepared, then held in position. I mark and make the stitch holes so the line follows the shape of the piece. The panel in these photographs is held in a stitching pony, which leaves both of my hands free to work the needles and keep the tension consistent.

Why I use it

A hand sewn saddle stitch makes a strong, secure seam. Because each stitch is formed with two needles passing through the leather, a damaged thread is less likely to cause the whole seam to unravel. It is a practical choice for pieces that are handled, folded and carried every day.

It also gives me control. I can feel how the thread passes through each hole and adjust the tension as I go, especially around corners or where several layers meet. The aim is a neat seam that holds the leather firmly without pulling it out of shape.

The time in each piece

Stitching by hand is slow work. There is no shortcut around passing both needles through every hole, but I enjoy the steady rhythm of it. It is one of the stages where the separate leather parts become something useful.

The seam is only one part of the making. Cutting, thinning, assembling and finishing the edges all need care too. Once a design has been developed and tested for our range, I follow those making steps for each piece that leaves the workshop.

I use saddle stitching because it suits the leather goods I want to make: simple, practical pieces built with care and intended to be used for years. You can see more of the work behind them on our Our Craft page, or explore our classic bifold wallets.