Made slowly, by hand

There are quicker ways to make a leather wallet. We choose to make ours by hand.

From selecting and cutting the leather through to skiving, edge finishing, assembly and saddle stitching, every stage is carried out in our workshop in England using traditional leather working techniques.

A single bifold wallet can take between 8 and 10 hours to complete. Much of that time is spent on the details you may not immediately notice carefully thinning the leather, preparing and finishing edges, marking every stitch and assembling each piece in the correct order.

It's a slow process, but that's rather the point.

We make our leather goods to be used, enjoyed and carried for many years to come.

Set of white card templates on a black leather with tools in the background

DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT

01 — The Design
Every Explorer Leather piece begins with a design developed and tested in our workshop.

Every product we make is designed by us, from the initial idea through to the finished piece. Designs often go through several versions as we refine the shape, proportions and functionality.

We make and test each design ourselves before it becomes part of our collection. Once we are happy with the final design, we create a durable template which is then used to accurately mark and cut each piece of leather.

This process allows us to make sure that every design works as it should before we put it into production, while keeping the quality and attention to detail that we expect from everything we make.

Black leather pieces arranged on a cutting mat with a ruler in the background

Hand cut

Cutting the Leather

02 — Selecting & Cutting the Leather Each component is individually positioned and cut from the hide. Because natural leather varies across a hide, this isn't simply a case of cutting as many pieces as possible from it.

Each piece starts with a full hide of leather. Using the templates we have developed for each design, we carefully cut the leather by hand into the individual pieces required to make the finished product.

Once the pieces have been cut, we mark and pre-punch each of the stitching holes by hand. This gives us the accuracy needed for the hand-sewing process and ensures that each piece comes together neatly and consistently.

It is a simple part of the process, but taking the time to get these early stages right makes a difference to the finished piece.

Hand beveled, ceased & Burnished

The Details

03 — Preparing the Details Skiving, creasing, bevelling and burnishing happen before much of the wallet is even assembled. These are the quiet details that give the finished piece its refinement.

Once the individual pieces have been cut, there are still several stages to complete before we begin assembling the product.

Depending on the design, this can include skiving sections of the leather, edge creasing, bevelling and burnishing. Each stage has its own purpose and helps to refine the leather, creating cleaner edges, better proportions and a more considered finish.

These are often the parts of the process that take the most time, but we believe they are worth it. It is the small details and the care taken at each stage that ultimately bring a piece together and give it the finish we are looking for.

More info

taking shape

Assembly

04 — Assembly The prepared pieces are carefully aligned, glued and assembled in a particular sequence.

Once all of the individual pieces have been prepared, it is time to start bringing them together.

Each design is assembled in a specific order, with the different parts carefully glued and then hand stitched together. The order is important, as many of the pieces need to be joined before others can be added.

This is where the individual components start to become the finished piece, with each stage building on the work that has gone before it.

Close-up of a textured black leather wallet with brown stitching on a dark surface.

Saddle stitch

Perfectly Hand Sewn

05 — Saddle Stitching Every stitch is made by hand using two needles and a single length of  thread. No sewing machine.

Every piece we make is meticulously stitched by hand. It is a slower and more deliberate process than machine sewing, but it is an important part of the way we make our products. For us, good craftsmanship is about taking the time to do things properly.

We use the traditional saddle stitch, a time-honoured technique that has been used in leatherwork for generations. Using two needles and a single length of thread, each stitch is passed through the leather individually to create a strong, secure and durable seam.

Before stitching, we use French-style pricking irons with a 3.38mm spacing to carefully mark each stitch by hand. These markings guide every stitch, allowing us to achieve the clean, even spacing that is such an important part of a well-made leather piece.

We use high-quality linen thread, which is coated with beeswax before stitching. The wax helps strengthen and protect the fibres, while allowing the thread to pass smoothly through the leather and helping each stitch settle securely into place.

There are no shortcuts in this part of the process. Each stitch is made by hand, one after another, with care and attention to detail. It takes considerably longer than machine sewing, but that time is reflected in the finished piece.

For us, hand stitching is more than simply a way of joining leather. It is part of the tradition, character and craftsmanship that goes into every piece we make.

FINISHING & CARE

06 — Finishing Edges are levelled, bevelled, burnished and creased before the finished piece receives its final inspection and leather care.

With the piece now fully assembled and stitched, the remaining edges are carefully finished by hand. They are edge creased, bevelled and burnished to refine the leather and create the clean, smooth finish we look for in every piece.

Once the final finishing touches are complete, each piece is given a light application of leather care to help nourish and protect the leather before it leaves our workshop.

Only when we are completely happy with the finished piece is it carefully packaged and sent on to its new home.