How to Care for Your Vegetable Tanned Leather Goods

Leather goods are made to be used. Whether you carry a wallet, card holder or bag, the leather will gradually take on the marks of everyday life. Looking after it helps keep it in good condition as its character develops.

Vegetable tanned leather needs a little care, but that does not have to mean a complicated routine.

Keep everyday cleaning simple

For dust and light surface dirt, start with a soft, clean, dry cloth. Wipe gently rather than scrubbing.

Avoid household cleaners, alcohol wipes and harsh cleaning products. This includes shoe polishes as well.

What to do if the leather gets wet

Try to keep your leather goods away from rain, spills and prolonged moisture. Vegetable tanned leather can absorb water, which may leave marks or affect its shape.

If an item gets wet, empty its pockets and compartments, gently blot away excess moisture with a clean cloth and let it dry naturally at room temperature. Keep it away from radiators, hairdryers and direct sunlight.

Once it is fully dry, check how the leather feels before putting it back into use. Water marks may remain even after careful drying; treatment cannot always return leather to its original appearance.

Condition with care

Conditioning can help when leather begins to feel dry, but more product is not necessarily better. Different leathers contain different amounts of oils and waxes, so I would judge the condition of the leather rather than follow a fixed schedule.

Choose a conditioner suitable for the particular vegetable tanned leather, follow its instructions and apply sparingly. Test a small amount somewhere discreet first and allow it to dry before treating the rest.

Conditioners can darken leather or change its surface appearance. On a textured leather, they may also alter the feel, so it is worth checking before applying anything.

For vegetable tanned leather we recommend Saphir Médaille d'Or Vegetable Tanned Leather Cream, subject to the specific Pueblo guidance below.

A note on Badalassi Carlo Pueblo

Pueblo has a distinctive textured, matte surface that becomes darker and smoother and develops a sheen through use. Applying creams or conditioners too early can darken the leather and flatten that texture, bringing forward changes that would otherwise develop naturally.

For our Pueblo pieces, we recommend waiting until the surface has become smooth through everyday use before applying a leather cream or conditioner. Even then, only condition it if the leather feels dry, using a small amount and testing somewhere discreet first.

While the original texture remains, keep care simple: gently remove surface dust with a soft, dry cloth and allow the leather to develop at its own pace.

Avoid overfilling

Carry what the piece was designed to hold. Forcing extra cards into a pocket or overloading a bag can stretch the leather and put unnecessary strain on stitching, handles and other parts.

It is worth emptying pockets and compartments occasionally, removing anything you no longer need and checking for dirt caught inside. When you are not using the item, store it somewhere dry and ventilated, away from heat and strong sunlight.

Let the leather develop its character

A change in colour or feel is part of the natural patina of vegetable tanned leather. Handling, light and everyday use can deepen the colour, soften the leather and gradually smooth its surface. Some leathers change more noticeably than others.

Small marks and changes are part of owning a material that responds to use. Care helps preserve its condition; it does not keep it looking exactly as it did on the day it left the workshop.

My approach is simple: use your leather goods, look after them gently and ask if you are unsure about a treatment. A little considered care will help you enjoy them for years to come.

Read more about leather patina or return to our leather overview.