What goes into making a handmade leather wallet?

A finished wallet is a small object, but there is a surprising amount of work in making one. A classic bifold takes me around eight to ten hours, from preparing the leather to the final edge finishing.

Before a wallet enters the range

The design work happens before I make a wallet for sale. I develop and test each pattern in the workshop, adjusting the shape and pockets until I’m happy with how it feels, carries and works in everyday use. Once the design is settled, it becomes part of our product line. When I make an existing style, I work from that finished pattern.

 

Choosing and preparing the leather

Making an individual wallet begins with selecting the leather and cutting the pieces. The outer cover, lining and card pockets all have their own shape and purpose. I check each part as I work; a small difference in a pocket can affect how neatly the wallet comes together.

Some areas need to be thinned so several layers can sit together without creating unnecessary bulk. I also begin preparing edges that will be harder to reach once the pockets are assembled. These steps take time, but they help the finished wallet fold comfortably and feel good in the hand.

Building the pockets

I align the pieces carefully and use adhesive to hold them in place before stitching. It lets me check the position of each pocket and keep the layers steady while I work. The glue is part of assembly; the seam itself is sewn by hand.

I use my templates to mark and make the stitch holes. A straight, even line depends on the preparation as much as the sewing. Where several pieces meet, the layers need to stay aligned so the pockets remain tidy and usable.

I sew the wallet with a saddle stitch, passing two needles through the leather from opposite sides. It is a slow, steady part of the process and one I enjoy. The stitching holds the pockets securely while giving me control over the tension at every hole. I explain the method in more detail in Why I saddle stitch our leather goods by hand.

The finishing details

After assembly, I return to the edges: refining, smoothing and finishing them so they are comfortable to handle. I also check the shape, the fold and each pocket before the wallet leaves my workshop.

None of these steps is especially dramatic on its own. They are small decisions and careful movements repeated throughout each piece. Together, they determine how the wallet feels, how it carries your cards and how it stands up to daily use.

Vegetable tanned leather will soften and develop a patina as you carry it. The wallet leaves the workshop finished, but its character continues to change with use. That is part of the appeal for me: making something practical that can become distinctly yours over time.

You can read more about our approach on the Our Craft page or explore the classic bifold wallets currently in the range.